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Atop Dior, Balancing Art and Commerce

I don’t think that you can cancel it. You have to live with your past in a beautiful way.” Dior represents an entirely new past for Ms. Chiuri to absorb and refract, as well as an entirely new ecosystem in which to do it. As she spun through the atelier flou (where the couture dresses are made) and atelier tailleur (where suits and tailoring are made), Ms. Chiuri, in her black culottes, heavy rings on several fingers, was warmly if warily received by most of the women (and a few men) at work, many of whom had been there far longer than she had. Ms. Chiuri said she brought only two designers with her from Valentino, and she inherited staffs, studios and ateliers she is still adjusting to, and they to her. The couture ateliers “find me really informal,” she said with a laugh. “But at my age? I can’t change, honestly.” In one corner of an atelier, she stopped to admire the wooden hat forms of Silvana, a milliner who works with Stephen Jones on Dior’s hats and headpieces. Asked how long she had been with the company, she paused for a moment.

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